Faculty of Biology, University of Latvia
EEB
Hard copy: ISSN 1691–8088
On-line: ISSN 2255–9582
Environ Exp Biol (2017) 15: 29–36
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Environmental and
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Biology

Environ Exp Biol (2017) 15: 29–36

Orginal Paper

Chemical characterization and in vitro evaluation of birch sap and a complex of plant extracts for potential use in cosmetic anti-ageing products

Mārtiņš Borodušķis1*, Elza Kaktiņa1, Ilze Blāķe1, Ilva Nakurte2, Diana Dzabijeva2, Iveta Kusiņa3, Santa Mičule3, Anna Ramata-Stunda
1 University of Latvia, Faculty of Biology, Department of Microbiology and Biotechnology, Jelgavas 1, Riga LV–1004, Latvia
2 University of Latvia, Faculty of Chemistry, Jelgavas 1, Riga LV–1004, Latvia
3 MADARA Cosmetics JSC, Zeltiņu 131, Marupe LV–2167, Latvia
* Corresponding author, E-mail: martins.boroduskis@lu.lv

Abstract

Cosmetic manufacturers are continuously searching for new active ingredients to satisfy consumer needs. This leads to growing demand of botanical extracts with characterized chemical composition and proven efficacy. The aim of the study was to characterize the chemical composition of birch sap and a complex of seven plant extracts, with brand name Cell Repair Bio-Complex (CRB), and to evaluate their effects on skin cells. HPLC analysis was used to identify dominating compounds. Effect on proliferation of dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes was assessed using the IncuCyte ZOOM system. Results show that flavonoid and phenolic acid rich CRB possesses antiradical activity and stimulates dermal fibroblast proliferation at low concentration. Birch sap stimulates both dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes at high concentrations. Stimulatory effect of keratinocytes was observed also for the combination of birch sap and CRB. The findings indicate the potential of CRB to be used as an active ingredient, whereas birch sap used at high concentrations could substitute water base and add additional efficacy.

Key words: birch sap, dermal fibroblasts, epidermal keratinocytes, plant extracts, skin antiageing.

 
Environ Exp Biol (2017) 15: 29–36
 DOI: http://doi.org/10.22364/eeb.15.05
EEB

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Prof. Gederts Ievinsh
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University of Latvia

 
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