Environ Exp Biol (2017) 15: 29–36

Chemical characterization and in vitro evaluation of birch sap and a complex of plant extracts for potential use in cosmetic anti-ageing products

Abstract

Cosmetic manufacturers are continuously searching for new active ingredients to satisfy consumer needs. This leads to growing demand of botanical extracts with characterized chemical composition and proven efficacy. The aim of the study was to characterize the chemical composition of birch sap and a complex of seven plant extracts, with brand name Cell Repair Bio-Complex (CRB), and to evaluate their effects on skin cells. HPLC analysis was used to identify dominating compounds. Effect on proliferation of dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes was assessed using the IncuCyte ZOOM system. Results show that flavonoid and phenolic acid rich CRB possesses antiradical activity and stimulates dermal fibroblast proliferation at low concentration. Birch sap stimulates both dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes at high concentrations. Stimulatory effect of keratinocytes was observed also for the combination of birch sap and CRB. The findings indicate the potential of CRB to be used as an active ingredient, whereas birch sap used at high concentrations could substitute water base and add additional efficacy.